WEINHEIM, Germany — “Tis a month before
the month of May, / And the Spring comes slowly up this
way,” laments Samuel Taylor Coleridge in his poem
“Christabel.”
I find the terse, punning title of Freddie Hubbard’s
tune gives a better description of how things happened
this year: “Up Jumped Spring.”
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The change of season took us all more or less by surprise
here in Weinheim, one of the larger towns along Germany’s
famed Bergstraße, which spans more or less from
Frankfurt at its northernmost point to Heidelberg at
its south. A few cool days in late March suddenly gave
way to warmth and sun, and it has stayed that way since.
Sunny weather like this brings the Germans out of their
houses in droves. On the first day to allow us to forgo
long sleeves, my wife and I ventured into the nearby
Schloßpark and found the place packed with families.
Many of them spanned several generations. A significant
portion of the crowd had assembled around the spot of
lawn near the park entrance to admire the newly blooming
crocuses — purple, white and yellow dots among
the green grass — while those who had managed
to sneak past were wandering around the Exotenwald,
a kind of arboreal garden stretching across acres of
hillside.
We had hoped for a private stroll along one of the
Exotenwald’s many wide paths, but all of them
were bustling with people eager to see “earth’s
most multiple, excited daughter” as she breezed
into existence. It’s hard to begrudge them their
desire to enjoy the same beautiful surroundings. And
it wasn’t as if this gathering had been as unpredictable
as the arrival of spring. How else would the Germans
occupy themselves on such an inviting day? Television?
Surely not.
There are countless stereotypes about the Germans,
some amusingly justified, many preposterous and false;
but one that seems to hold quite a bit of water is their
general disinterest in television. An impartial observer
would be hard-pressed to find a German worshiping the
tube when an outdoor alternative exists. This recent
weekend brought the Pflänzeltage (Plant Days) to
town. Dozens of vendors lined the main street, or Hauptstraße,
and local folk spilled outside to stock up on geraniums,
begonias, chrysanthemums and any other plant that might
be coming into bloom, not to mention a variety of cooking
herbs and decorative shrubs.
But it doesn’t always take a special occasion
to attract the crowds. Year-round, fine days bring groups
and amblers to Hermannshof, the town’s botanical
garden. The merest hint of sunshine draws our aloof
neighbor, a die-hard clubgoer and night owl, out on
his balcony, for hours at a time. Even a chilly Christmas
afternoon sees the Schloßpark crammed as it is
now, with families walking off the effects of the previous
evening’s meal.
Compare this behavior with that of quite a few English
expatriots we know. For them, television is an essential
component of any modern home, like electricity or indoor
plumbing. This is an unquestionable fact that is not
altered by life in another country. So it isn’t
uncommon for them to shell out hundreds of euros to
have the infinite spread of channels (or even just the
meager basics: BBC, ITV, Channels Four and Five) beamed
in via satellite from the United Kingdom.
As is their custom, they would much rather sit down
to a bit of telly after work than consider taking an
evening constitutional. Meanwhile the Germans toss aside
their napkins, push back their chairs, and head out
to stroll and sample the goods from one of the town’s
four ice cream stalls. Ice cream, incidentally, is the
one food business that will never fail to turn a profit
in this area of Germany.
I haven’t questioned the handful of Americans
I know on this particular subject, but most of them
are directly or indirectly involved with one of the
large U.S. military bases in the region; and so I make
the educated assumption that they, too, are as beholden
to the talking picture box as their countrymen back
in Duluth, Tacoma, Cherry Hill, Portland and every other
city and hamlet.
During my year up north in Hamburg, I knew a young
woman who used to sit and watch television every night
while eating dinner with her U.S. host family. When
she returned to Germany after her student exchange ended,
she rebelled by trying to impose these odd habits on
her own family. Her poor mother was left with no choice
but to let her take her evening meal in front of the
television — that, or face an impudent teenager
supposedly enlightened by a year abroad.
Of course, the younger Germans are noticeably more
TV-prone. In that respect, Germany hardly differs from
any other Western nation. Teenagers want — nay,
crave — their MTV, their Viva, their Viva2. Their
older siblings hanker after the dubbed, anodyne American
sitcoms, though perhaps they would be loath to admit
it so openly. And there are a few domestic and imported
TV programs that have attracted or continue to attract
significant numbers of viewers from all age groups:
Stefan Raab’s laugh-a-minute “TV Total”;
the hip commentator Harald Schmidt’s eponymous
show; the daft, pop-star-producing soap opera “Gute
Zeiten, Schlechte Zeiten”; Marcel Reich-Ranicki’s
brilliant televised literary critiques. The John Cleese
sitcom “Fawlty Towers” and “The Osbournes”
(the latter undubbed) have proven to be big hits as
well.
As a result of this growing demand and the rise of
special interests, cable television has been introduced
to more and more households in the past decade. Likewise,
you would have to be blind to miss the satellite dishes
sprouting in malignant clusters from the sides of apartment
buildings, all of them trained in the direction of the
god of signal transmission. But these tend to appear
more frequently in the Turkish ghettos than they do
in other residential areas.
So, yes, there are signs that the Germans one day might
find reruns of “Friends” and “Leave
It to Beaver” far more compelling than a walk
in the park or a leisurely loop around the botanical
garden. For the time being, however, they prefer to
take a less passive route to their entertainment. This
is something I find reassuring. I hope it persists,
unchanged by the rapid passing of these seasons.
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