California has a new take on mezcal and tequila. How Sacramento-area farmers are leading it

SACRAMENTO, Calif. — On recent a brisk March morning in Woodland’s rolling hills, Raul “Reppo” Chavez was already covered in sweat. Chavez and his cousin Antonio had spent the last half-hour hacking away at their agave plants — monstrous pineapple-looking beasts whose spiky leaves are all that can be seen above the soil. The jimadors, as the farmers of the unique succulent are called, were harvesting agave that they planted six to eight years ago. After a stormy weekend, they will roast the 100-pound agave hearts (known as piñas) for five to seven days in an 8-feet-deep pit covered with pumice...